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Sunday, July 31, 2011

The New Chic-Bohemian dress,

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I think this is the perfect look for a Friday; comfortable while professional for work and can easily take you to evening drinks or dinner...

Although, I do not usually like to photograph big prints, the colours are so well done! It would be so easy to match anything you have with this dress and with a change of jacket and shoes, you would have a completely new look... I wonder who made it?

This pic was taken outside Luxe, which I remember from reading Jill that it's good for fish-finger sandwiches for kids... I know where Tucs is going for lunch next Friday...


Coney Island Baby

 
When my Fire Island plans got derailed this weekend I decided to go to Coney Island instead. I really love this place in all it's funkadelic glory.


Shorts by Diesel, the charm bracelets are my mom's from high school.
Shoes are Elsee Anita's –favored by nightlife queens everywhere. Bag is Tano
Top is Fraiche

Susie Lau, Commecial St..

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Every one seemed to be out enjoying one of London's rare sunny days this past Friday.  Above Susie Lau out with a team doing something for terrestrial tv...

Bord De La Mer Dress








I am pleased to introduce to you all to my latest creation the "Bord De La mer" dress a Sailor inspired 8 gored flared mini dress made of nice light White and Lilac Seersucker Vintage Cotton fabric with a lace cutout at the back and self fabric buttons up the front. Yesterday I took it out for a stroll in Montreal's old port, it was the perfect setting I think, it almost looks like Paris! 
I was inspired by a vintage photograph I found and gave it a modern fit, it hugs and fits all the right places.
This dress is now available in my shop here:
YeYe Shop

p.s. I just sold this lovely dress and I promise to make more for next weekend, thank you double bubble you just made my day :) Thank you for supporting hand made.
xo!

Saturday, July 30, 2011

OH NO! A Shirt I will Never Sew, because...


 OOPS!  I totally misread Vogue 8759 pattern's online photos and diagrams!

You may now give me 10 lashes with a wet noodle...be gentle.

 And  I should know better...that's why I started drafting my own shirt patterns in the first place...sigh.
Once I had a chance to really examine this pattern up close and personal...well...there were some design details I was not expecting.  Not they are necessarily BAD details...just different than the way most mens shirts are drafted.

I compared V8759 to my own hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt pattern with a shoulder-sleeve seam line that stops just a tiny bit below the arm/shoulder joint. This Vogue pattern has a longer shoulder seam..in other words, the sleeve will be more dropped than I prefer.

Then there is the yoke. At first glance in the online pattern catalog, it seemed to be fine..though I did notice that the front "yoke-drop" seemed a bit shallow...and that can be OK.   However, until I looked at the pattern closely and measured it.... I didn't realize that the yoke seam only drops a very scant 1/4" down into the front. In other words, like a ladies blouse, the shoulder-yoke seam on this men's shirt pattern will virtually ride right along the exact shoulder line, instead of dropping/sinking down into the front the way most mens shirts do.  Additionally, the overall width of the shirt body is larger than my hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt, and also larger than other printed patterns in my stash.  I do realize that these are the decisions that the Vogue pattern designer made, and I respect that. But it is a look that I do not prefer.

The Vogue 8759 sleeves seem fine...narrow enough, and the armscye is as high as my own "slim-cut" draft. They are 2-piece, and the sleeve plackets are reminiscent of the way casual sport coat/blazer vents are drafted.

So...am I going to take the time and fabric to sew up a test garment of a pattern with style lines I do not like?

No.

Sure, I could re-draft the parts I do not like....but I already have slimmer-cut men's shirt patterns that I have drafted by hand...why take the time to change this one?

Should you use this pattern? 

It's up to you. It is not a "classic" men's shirt...and that's not a "bad" thing. But it is not as slim-cut as the envelope photos seem to show, and the yoke is not the "standard" angle or depth...and that may be fine with you. I know that my husband Roger would not like that yoke-shoulder seam as high as it is on this pattern...he is a classic-cut shirt kind of guy. I can design, draft, and sew a shirt with a narrow body for him, and add design details like funky pockets, angled seams, and even bias cut sleeve hem bands...but a yoke that rides that high on the shoulder?  For Roger?  No.   And I cannot use this pattern for my clients, because it is a commercial pattern (and besides, I really do not like that high shoulder).   Your man might be different...in fact he probably is!   Mine is very picky about yoke depths and things like that because he happens to be married to a classically trained Shirtmaker who has strong likes and dislikes..and opines about them often ;)

So while this pattern is not "horrible"...I am not happy with it, so I am not going to use my time to make it. And please remember...this is just my opinion, for what it's worth. Your opinion about these things are probably quite different than mine...as they should be...because we all have different tastes.

OH NO! A Shirt I will Never Sew, because...


 OOPS!  I totally misread Vogue 8759 pattern's online photos and diagrams!

You may now give me 10 lashes with a wet noodle...be gentle.

 And  I should know better...that's why I started drafting my own shirt patterns in the first place...sigh.
Once I had a chance to really examine this pattern up close and personal...well...there were some design details I was not expecting.  Not they are necessarily BAD details...just different than the way most mens shirts are drafted.

I compared V8759 to my own hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt pattern with a shoulder-sleeve seam line that stops just a tiny bit below the arm/shoulder joint. This Vogue pattern has a longer shoulder seam..in other words, the sleeve will be more dropped than I prefer.

Then there is the yoke. At first glance in the online pattern catalog, it seemed to be fine..though I did notice that the front "yoke-drop" seemed a bit shallow...and that can be OK.   However, until I looked at the pattern closely and measured it.... I didn't realize that the yoke seam only drops a very scant 1/4" down into the front. In other words, like a ladies blouse, the shoulder-yoke seam on this men's shirt pattern will virtually ride right along the exact shoulder line, instead of dropping/sinking down into the front the way most mens shirts do.  Additionally, the overall width of the shirt body is larger than my hand-drafted "slim-cut" shirt, and also larger than other printed patterns in my stash.  I do realize that these are the decisions that the Vogue pattern designer made, and I respect that. But it is a look that I do not prefer.

The Vogue 8759 sleeves seem fine...narrow enough, and the armscye is as high as my own "slim-cut" draft. They are 2-piece, and the sleeve plackets are reminiscent of the way casual sport coat/blazer vents are drafted.

So...am I going to take the time and fabric to sew up a test garment of a pattern with style lines I do not like?

No.

Sure, I could re-draft the parts I do not like....but I already have slimmer-cut men's shirt patterns that I have drafted by hand...why take the time to change this one?

Should you use this pattern? 

It's up to you. It is not a "classic" men's shirt...and that's not a "bad" thing. But it is not as slim-cut as the envelope photos seem to show, and the yoke is not the "standard" angle or depth...and that may be fine with you. I know that my husband Roger would not like that yoke-shoulder seam as high as it is on this pattern...he is a classic-cut shirt kind of guy. I can design, draft, and sew a shirt with a narrow body for him, and add design details like funky pockets, angled seams, and even bias cut sleeve hem bands...but a yoke that rides that high on the shoulder?  For Roger?  No.   And I cannot use this pattern for my clients, because it is a commercial pattern (and besides, I really do not like that high shoulder).   Your man might be different...in fact he probably is!   Mine is very picky about yoke depths and things like that because he happens to be married to a classically trained Shirtmaker who has strong likes and dislikes..and opines about them often ;)

So while this pattern is not "horrible"...I am not happy with it, so I am not going to use my time to make it. And please remember...this is just my opinion, for what it's worth. Your opinion about these things are probably quite different than mine...as they should be...because we all have different tastes.

Visit to Selfridges...

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Pandora Sykes, InStyle
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I have always loved Selfridges... As an infant, up until till the age of six, I had my hair cut at Selfridges... Back then the top floor was all children's, hair toys and a little tea shop for treats or to celebrate your birthday party...

Still now I enjoy a rush of excitment when I enter the store but unlike when I was a kid I now avoid the circular doors, especially as I'm currently walking with a cane... Consequently, I was delighted when this woman greeted and helped me find my floor... It could have been how I imagine it would be done in Tokyo or perhaps on a much more intimate scale at Daslu são Paulo... I did not catch the woman's name, just lazy on my part but I hope one day Mary Portas will recruit her to do something for her org, perhaps something in training...

Friday, July 29, 2011

Next Up...the New Vogue Shirt Pattern!

I finally received this pattern and plan to start sewing the test-garment (the muslin) this weekend.

Since this will just be a test of the pattern, I will not use fine seam finishes for this first version of this shirt. After stitching, the seams will be pressed then serged and topstitched. My goal is to evaluate the cut and fit of this pattern. However, I will be using very nice fabric...this beautiful  navy and dark red gingham cotton shirting bought from Gorgeous Fabrics.com  quite a while ago. Why high-quality fabric, but short-cut seam finishes?  Well...it is just my preference to always work with nice fabric.  After all, this fitting garment might very well may end up being what I call "weekend-wearable", if not for my "test-model" (otherwise known as my dear husband Roger), then for one of my friends.  And anyway...I bought enough of this fabric for several shirts :)

So...stay tuned. Barring any emergencies, I will update you with my progress of important and/or tricky parts along the way, including any "surprises"...good or not-so-good !

Side note-- Thank you all for the get-well wishes via facebook for my Mother-in-Law...who was recently in an awful head-on collision auto accident and is still in the Trauma Intensive Care Unit.

Next Up...the New Vogue Shirt Pattern!

I finally received this pattern and plan to start sewing the test-garment (the muslin) this weekend.

Since this will just be a test of the pattern, I will not use fine seam finishes for this first version of this shirt. After stitching, the seams will be pressed then serged and topstitched. My goal is to evaluate the cut and fit of this pattern. However, I will be using very nice fabric...this beautiful  navy and dark red gingham cotton shirting bought from Gorgeous Fabrics.com  quite a while ago. Why high-quality fabric, but short-cut seam finishes?  Well...it is just my preference to always work with nice fabric.  After all, this fitting garment might very well may end up being what I call "weekend-wearable", if not for my "test-model" (otherwise known as my dear husband Roger), then for one of my friends.  And anyway...I bought enough of this fabric for several shirts :)

So...stay tuned. Barring any emergencies, I will update you with my progress of important and/or tricky parts along the way, including any "surprises"...good or not-so-good !

Side note-- Thank you all for the get-well wishes via facebook for my Mother-in-Law...who was recently in an awful head-on collision auto accident and is still in the Trauma Intensive Care Unit.

Thursday, July 28, 2011

Loved the Look... The Old Truman Brewery

DSC_0026>>>trumanbrewery.com


Recommendations: victimfashionst.com in the same part of town


Maihui is launching

Victim's pop up-shop
25 th July till 9 th aug
AT: Eclectic gallery
66 Marylebone Hight st

11 am till 6 pm

Rainbow Bright

A bit of color with mod appeal.

Thursday afternoon, winding down in LDN...

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Wednesday, July 27, 2011

Seen on the street: Model from Ghana - Menaye Donkor

Ghanian born model, Menaye Donkor, was in NYC last week for Africa Fashion Week NY. AFWNY gives African designers a chance to showcase their designs and inspirations to a NY audience.   She stopped traffic wearing a jacket by Akuchi Designs, Met Jeans and Sergi Rossi platform sandals.

Q & A with Citizen Vintage








Last weekend Lara of Citizen vintage came over to my place to take some pictures of my place and to chat about what inspires me and what I have been up to. I had a great time hanging with her showing her my vintage collection and many projects I have been working on.  I am so thankful the Citizen vintage ladies asked me to do this Q&A for there Tumblr blog here:

Citizen Vintage

I have to say that Lara is quite the amazing photographer and the sweetest girl you will ever meet!
If you haven't yet and you live in the Montreal area you must make a stop at the Citizen Vintage shop on 5330 St. Laurent Boulevard

All photos by Lara Kaluza

xo!

To help us get over hump-day on the way to the weekend...

Tuesday, July 26, 2011

Deryck + Stephanie at the after-party for The Tents - about #NYFW

Last weekend I had the opportunity to attend the premiere screening of The Tents –a documentary about New York Fashion Week and specifically how the tents came to be in Bryant Park. It was a thoroughly entertaining insider look at fashion week and it was fun to see so many familiar faces on the screen from designers and models to stylish mainstays in the audience like Patrick McDonald.

Afterwards there was a party at The Norwood where I congratulated my friend Deryck Todd (above) who was involved in the film and gave me all the dirt on the designers and fashion stars he interviewed. (Okay, he said everyone was great–I couldn't get him to spill a single scandalous story!) Here he's with Stephanie who works and models for Betsey Johnson and is wearing all Betsey with her Louboutins.

TRAILER for THE TENTS



The Tents Trailer by Marcus K Jones

Bust Magazine Feature!




Today as I was coming back home I walked by a magazine stand and there it was, the new August/September issue of Bust magazine, my little liberty printed and lace collar was featured in it! I love the little collage inspiration page they made. 

Thank you Bust!

xo!

Monday, July 25, 2011

Settled weather continues but we've, gone back-to-blk, in LDN***

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Overall shorts: Yea or Nay?

Overall shorts? Something I would normally say to avoid past the age of 12. So this is a lesson in style and styling –it's all about how you put it together. I think this works surprisingly well here. What do you think? Is this a look you'd rock?

McCalls 6354...in Navy Batik


A new blouse for Jill in Blue Batik :)






Stitching up this pattern is so fast and easy!
I did make a pattern modification.
As I hope you can see, I split the cut-on 
cap sleeve to give it some movement.
I also added a self-fabric bow at the CF waist to give the appearance of a drawstring.

  





And since she really liked the first one I made from this bright flowery cotton lawn I decided to make another.  I hope she likes it in Blue Batik just as  much!

McCalls 6354...in Navy Batik


A new blouse for Jill in Blue Batik :)






Stitching up this pattern is so fast and easy!
I did make a pattern modification.
As I hope you can see, I split the cut-on 
cap sleeve to give it some movement.
I also added a self-fabric bow at the CF waist to give the appearance of a drawstring.

  





And since she really liked the first one I made from this bright flowery cotton lawn I decided to make another.  I hope she likes it in Blue Batik just as  much!

Sunday, July 24, 2011

Predicted: Pleasently sunny in LDN all week...

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Yellow is the color of sun rays... Keep on Movin' or for an early evening set Jazzie's Groove... >>>

Henrik Vibskov - What I'm Wearing Now

I had this brilliant idea to take this photo next to plants on the roof/garden of my building. What I didn't anticipate was how much the background would compete with the pants –hence the desaturation.

The pants are by Henrik Vibskov –who I'm currently in love with–and I picked them up at Eva NYC recently. I would never think of myself as someone who'd wear a print that included green polka dots but I love how loose and drapey they are and they're a nice alternative in the super hot weather we've been having. I've paired them with borrowed-from-a-friend Tory Burch white slides (which to me are sort of an ironic juxtaposition) and a basic black tank top.

This is what I've been working on lately...








It has been a pretty busy and successful weekend in these parts, I just finished sewing up my very first dress made of vintage seersucker fabric and lace. This design was in the back of my to do rack and finally I built up the guts to actually finish it and put it out there for all to see. This dress will be in my Etsy shop later this week it is a size small/medium waist 27" bust 36" if any body is interested  ;) I call this dress the "Bord de la mer" dress, inspired by a vintage picture I found somewhere with a modern silhouette that fits to perfection and a lovely lace cutout detail at the back.

I also got around to making faux leather collars, I am very happy with the way they look, they are so chic and slick I find. They are available in Jet Black, Metallic Mauve and Metallic Taupe. 

The collars are now available in my shop here:


xo!

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